Published on September 16th, 2022 | by Jerry Doby
EDWARD CRUTCHLEY SPRING/SUMMER 2023 is an extremely bold collection birthed via a deep thought process…check out the official line below and shoutout to the mind behind it!
“The Only Constant in Life is Change”
This fragment, attributed to Heraclitus of Ephesus, who, in his susceptibility to melancholia went on to bear the title “the weeping philosophy”, shall serve as a premie for our brief, but collective sojourn. Within the unexplored waters of change, it is impossible for any human to step into the same waters twice, as Heraclitus enlightens us:
Sea contra land, flow contra rigidity, myth contra realism, relieving amorphousness contra constricting framework, otherness contra conformity.
How can these differences be reconciled?
The ancient Greeks had an intricate relationship with the ever-changing sea. While a resource, a spring of power, the sea’s otherness, its every-changing unpredictable nature, brute force and indomitable will were feared.
At their core many stories within Greek mythology are about interpersonal conflict. The solution is often a form of metamorphosis. Liminal beings, bestowed with the power of transition or change act as bearers of resolution. Unlike humans, their very essence allows them to shift through contrasting realms: the mortal and the divine. Land and sea.
Proteus (Πρωτεύς), a liminal being that not only dwells in but also embodies rivers and oceanic bodies of water exemplifies this. When revealed to the human eye, Proteus takes on the “Old man of the Sea” form, when concealed he enjoys the epithet of (God of) “elusive sea change”. And while he bears the gift of prophecy, in his reluctance to share it with humanity, Proteus shape shifts. Proteus will only enlighten those seeking to know the only constant (which is change) if they are able to catch him mid-metamorphosis.
His capabilities endure in the English language. We still use the word “protean” to describe the ability to change intermittently and effortlessly. Much like fashion.
Perhaps, the only way to peacefully coexist with change is to be protean ourselves.
Perhaps, we will capture Proteus on our sojourn today.
– Aron Alexandros De Vallier Petridis
*All of the textiles developed exclusively for the collection are new interpretations on cloqué: a double fabric with a jacquard effect rich in couture sensibility. In some, aluminium has been woven to create a crinkle, in others, lurex offers iridescence.
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska
Look one: Multi frill gown made in a silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard* Holographic platform triple strap sandals made by ROKER
Look two: Four-button high-break half-lined jacket made in fully traceable RWS certified wool and mohair* Cargo mini skirt made in fully traceable WRS certified wool and mohair Dropped waist button up skirt made in silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard Holographic platform triple strap sandal
*The Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) is a voluntary benchmark that is working to ensure a strong chain of custody for certified materials as they move through the supply chain.
Look three: Lightly padded midi liner coat made in silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard* Silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard scarf tied as belt Holographic platform triple strap sandal
*Archetype couture shapes and opulent textile are amplified. When splayed, these clothes resemble flora and fauna. Flowers in bloom, jelly fish in motion, aquatic vegetation aflutter.
Look four: Oversized skater shirt in silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard Flared button up skirt in fully traceable RWS certified wool and mohair Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look five: Sleeveless Mac with exaggerated back yoke and epaulettes in silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard Tapered deep pleat elasticated cargo pant in recycled polyester in A.I. inspired abalone print Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look six: Cropped sheath top covered in crystal polyester ribbons High cut briefs in recycled crepe jersey Dropped waist button up skirt in silk Habomai, hand dipped to give the effect of rippled water Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look seven: Multi pocket zip front bomber in water effect nylon made using a faceted yarn ton refract light High crop bra top made in recycled crepe jersey Midi length skirt covered in crystal polyester ribbons Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look eight: Bodycon power mesh midi dress encrusted with aurora borealis and holographic sequin waves, hand embroidered pleats and bead encrustations Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look nine: Frill sleeve mini dress made in water effect nylon made using a faceted yarn to refract light Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look ten: Power mesh vest encrusted with aurora borealis, holographic sequin waves and hand embroidered pleat and bead encrustations Maxi length mac with exaggerated back yoke and epaulettes in water effect nylon made using a faceted yarn to refract light Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look eleven: Lightly padded maxi liner coat in water effect nylon made using a faceted yarn to refract t light* Water effect nylon scarf worn as belt Holographic platform triple strap sandal
*For the last two seasons Crutchley has been gently expanding on a vocabulary of queer glamour. An unapologetic opulence reverberates in his clothes. Here he has taken extravagance – and maximised it. The dial was at 7 and now it is at 9.
Look twelve: Jewel and sequin encrusted cupels bra Tapered deep pleat cargo pants in water effect nylon made using a faceted yarn to refract light WE WILL RETURN / I WILL BE BACK t-shirt ticket into back of pants Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look thirteen: Lightly padded midi liner coat made in recycled polyester in A.I. inspired abalone print Recycled polyester A.I. abalone print scarf worn as belt Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look fourteen: Multi yarn bodycon top with dropped stitch hole details Multi yarn bodycon skirt with dropped stitch hole details Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look fifteen: Alpaca abstract aurora jacquard knit beanie Multi pocket trekking shirt with exaggerated floating back yoke in an organic silk printed with an abstract aurora design Alpaca crop top in an abstract aurora jacquard knit High cut briefs made in recycled crepe jersey Cargo miniskirt made in fully traceable RWS certified wool and mohair Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look sixteen: Alpaca abstract aurora jacquard knit beanie Bodycon power mesh mini dress encrusted with aurora borealis, holographic sequin waves and hand embroidered pleat and bead encrustations Alpaca oversized cardigan in an abstract aurora jacquard knit Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look seventeen: Oversized alpaca sleeveless cardigan in abstract aurora jacquard knit Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look eighteen: Multi yarn bodycon dress with dropped stitch hole details* Holographic platform triple strap sandal
*Abstract layered and rich but with plenty of skin chthonic sea goddess stood on dry, hot, salt-encrusted rocks she dives into the ocean going deeper, deeper.
Look nineteen: Midi length sheath dress covered in crystal polyester eribbons Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look twenty: Jewel and sequin encrusted cupels bra Jewel and sequin encrusted low rise brief Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look twenty-one: Lightly padded maxi liner coat in colour shifting lurex faced cloqué jacquard Colour shifting lurex faced cloqué jacquard scarf worn as belt holographic platform trip strap sandal
Look twenty-two: Puff sleeve minidress in colour shifting lurex and silk tubic cloqué jacquard* Holographic platform triple strap sandal
*tubic is a method of weaving similar to a brocatelle which has two warps,, achieving a puckered or quilted effect.
Look twenty-three: Tulip gown in colour shifting lurex and silk tunic cloqué jacquard Holographic platform triple strap sandal
Look twenty-four: Extravaganza gown in colour shifting lurex faced cloqué jacquard* Holographic platform tripe strap sandal
*”I am not trying to pretend I am making couture but have had experience working in it over the last year it has shaped my approach. Couture – for me – is where you can push your ideas to the farthest point. The work gets to the highest level possible, as far as you can imagine. I am less afraid”
An oyster shell wreath is by Stephen Jones. Shifting pigment metal head pieces are by Victoria Rickard and Gianluigi Zoccheddu. All embroidery was done by The London Embroidery Studio and the prints designed and developed by James Bosley Studio.
The show space is scented in BASALT – a fragrance created by Edward Lorenz using a conceptual arrangement of a traditional Eau du Cologne. At its core is a balsam of dry roasted seashells distilled in an earthenware sill into the rarest Mysore Sandalwood Oil. It evokes the hyperreal, multi-sensory recall of salt-saline air, foam of crashing beach waves and seaweed washed ashore.
Styling: Julian Ganio Casting: Sophie Lynas at LEDA Casting Production: Antony Waller Press Release: Dal Chodha Shoes: Roker Jewellery and Head Pieces: Victoria Rickard and Gianluigi Zoccheddu Millinery: Stephen Jones Serpatine Rock Chokers: David Crutchley Movement Direction: Brieuc Breitenstein Music: Mickey O’Brien Historial and Cultural Consultant: Aron Alexandros de Vallier Petridis Fragrance Design: Edward Lorenz Hair: Richard Phillipart at Gary Represents sponsored by L’Oreal Professional Makeup: Michelle Dacillo sponsored by Weleda Nails: Marie Louise Coster at Nylon Artists using Louella Belle Lighting Design and Videography: Hydra Design Runway Photographer: Chris Yates Backstage and Look-book Photography: Francisco Gomez de Villaboa Graphic and Textile Design: James Bosely Studio Embroidery: The London Embroidery Studio Wovens Production: TRUK 1609 Studio Team: Karen Coughlan, Aron de Vallier, Ava Coffen, Aaron James Ford, Hilary Watts, Yong Hui Tan, Precious Ikekhua, Willow Prieto-Johnson, Lucas Chaillou, Oliver Julius Ross, Lucy Rogers, Mitja Olenik, with thank to Niall Sloane. Thanks to: L’Oreal Professional, Weleda, Louella Delle, Bower Roebuck, TRUK 1609
Tags: Couture, EDWARD CRUTCHLEY, Fashion, Style
Jerry Doby Editor-in-Chief of The Hype Magazine and internationally published arts & entertainment journalist. Connect with Jerry on Twitter and Instagram at @jerrydoby_ Member of the U.S. Department of Arts and Culture and the United States Press Corps. Partner at THM Media Group, Inc.
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